A digital archive showcasing the extensive collection of jewellery and adornment images shared on the former Ethnic Jewels Ning site over the years. These images have significantly enriched discussions on cultural adornment and its global dispersion.

Uzbekistan pendant with amber (inside)

Inside of amber filled pendant of an identical pair of gold wash on silver amulet pendants, sourced in a Turkomen gallery in Istanbul. It has a a very long, intricately hand worked chain that would sit just above the waist. Attached to the pendant are several diamond shaped gold wash pendants, inset with turquoise, and coral beads, which is turn attached to several bell shaped gold washed pendants with many coral dangles. The pendants are about 3 inches wide. The caps open to reveal the insides stuffed with solid amber. The smell is very evident. Any input would be welcomed.
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Comments

  • I'm guessing that the "amber" is probably a tree resin used to reinforce the shape of the piece while the repousse designs were added.  I've seen this with beads before.
  • That makes sense ... the work is very fine. Any idea of its age? Thanks. S
  • It's hard for me to judge.  From the photos that I've seen, the work looks very fine indeed.  I'd need close ups of loops and hooks to see the wear patterns.  I've been silversmithing since I was 15 and base much of my knowledge on wear patterns.  All of that said, age often depends on whether a piece is worn every day or just on festive occasions.  I'd ask one of the resident Central Asian specialists; they'd have a far better idea of age.  The resin filling can also make pieces heavier, and I've seen it used in this case as well.  Here it appears to be more of a support for the workmanship. Resin can be "melted out" afterwards, which, if this is an amulet container, is surprising that this was not done to make room.
  • I read in one of your links of Uzbekistan jewellery, that amber was worn inside the pendants as fertility, and coral for fidelity; this pendant has both. In the same article I noticed that the design of the "dangles" is very similar. Perhaps the amber was kept inside as a talisman/protector, as the amulet often had protective elements inside, eg prayers. If you like, I can easily send you very close up shots of the dangles to judge its age. Thanks for your help; I'm very new to all this but seem to have a nose for interesting pieces. S.
  • I was told that this was a "ceremonial" piece and therefore would not e worn for common use so there is a sense of age, but not wear, and no repairs anywhere I can see. The loops are fine, and linked with mother of pearl oval beads as well as coral. Overall it's very delicate with phenomenal detail in all the bits and pieces. I bought it from a dealer who never wanted to part with his pieces as his gallery was more museum than shop; books on every piece of jewellery, but we had a language barrier! After a month of my visiting him every day, he finally sold it to me. S

     

  • I'd guess at at least 100 years old.  Again, I usually need to see things in person.  As I mentioned in my other comment, wear patterns will vary according to use.
  • Thanks HIllary, great to be around so many informative people!
  • Hi Savanna, - We could well do  with more pictures of the piece as a whole, I would think, for what you show here is beautifully made, and does look old. I "read" the piece so far in much the same way as Hillarry: in particular, I support her notion that what is inside is not amber - certainly not old amber, as that would not be melted to form a filling. At best it would be a younger form, i.e. "copal resin", which is good but has far less character: and even that, though, would usually not be handled like this, because it shows well when worn, though it is yellowish, and more monotous than old amber. So a resin of no real artistic significance is far more likely. Such resins were, to be frank, not normally used for any symbolic/"superstitious" purpose, but merely to prevent the piece from denting - a very practical and prosaic purpose. A great many tribal pieces of jewellery were made this way, in several cultures, with resin (as a filling) playing an important TECHNICAL rather than cultural role in their manufacture. Finally, to see the object as a cultural one and to relate it to a cultural context, we'd need to see far more. What you show us so far is promising.
  • Have commented on this already.
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