A digital archive showcasing the extensive collection of jewellery and adornment images shared on the former Ethnic Jewels Ning site over the years. These images have significantly enriched discussions on cultural adornment and its global dispersion.
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Comments
What a brilliant and rare design merging a bird with this element!
Thanks Alaa. One of my obsessions is collecting pieces with bird motifs .. from old beads to old silver. This one is quite heavy and it's large ... about 60mm. Where do you think it comes from?
It must be a citadel piece, too?
Also Essaouria
I second Srah, very likely Essaouira, more so because of the bird than the presence of the "rose"
Could also be from "SAFI" a little but further to the north of essaouira on the atlantic coast
Hmm. We went to Safi. Not much fresh air there! I didn't know they had their own style of jewellery. What's their dominant motif?
MOstly the judaica jewels from this city were very striking as well as those from essaouira with the single fact that jewels had very elaborate designs with birds and often victorian (yes you read it, victorian) influences, for that jewish communities from both cities were heavily trading with english compagnies...matter of fact they were their exclusive representatives in Morocco and in front of the moroccan king......
Alaa this is most fascinating. I'm intrigued - having little historical and cultural knowledge about the region so far - as to why such elaborate and beautiful work has come out of Essaouria and close by ... now I know. What were they trading? It's obviously a valuable seaport and on both of my visits there was able to pick up beautiful pieces. Was the Essaouria jewellery in general much finer than Marrakech because of the royal connection ?
How can you tell the difference, between Safi and Essaouria designs?
You can't tell, only hallmarks can tell you but it only work for early pieces where city's name was engraved along the date
In general Essaouira have had a more cosmopolitan but keeping with contemporary influences...from the beginning essaouira was meant to be the window or the gate of morocco to the world and by royal decree it was built and by royal decree the finest artisans and merchants were "invited" to settle to new seaport and indulge in trade with western powers....
It is again very striking that so far the only place where filgree in morocco have had such weight is only in essaouira from where it was homeopathically exported through obvious jewish connection to some limited localities in the south...nowhere else filgree have had an importance in morocco in traditional smithin bar essaouira and to a lesser extent Safi...which is obviously another hint of this technique being an import into the moroccan technical scene
Safi being a port of earlier times than essaouira it seems it eventually fell into some sort of lethargy after essaouira was built and the trade went there exclusively, so the most striking pieces bearing hallmarks of safi are quite early compared to eassaouiran conterparts, but at the same time very early pieces from essaouira are rarities and most do bear the aggressive influences of the west, namely english
General trade in the region begun very early with sugar before it started to be cultivated as a cash crop in the newly discovered americas? then usual moroccan products such as leathers, arabic gum, ivory or more exotic such ostrich feathers which were a big hyped items in 18/19th century europe, imports were tea, indigo fabrics, tea pots, processed beads and items....
Note that Marrakech has a very very decent and low refined/elaborate tradition compared to other cities....it was a net importer of traditions from fes and elsewhere ... marrakech lived on its early history as a moroccan capital ( and that was under the very sober rule and low exhuberant almoravids) and eventually grew as a catering and dispatching center for the berber mountains....up until now marrakech is considered by moroccans as a not so serious city but it did transform under the tourism trade....marrakech smithing traditions are very weak, almost non existant compared to essaouira...even dagger smithing was much more elaborate in second class cities or even villages in the marrakech province then in marrakech proper!!