A digital archive showcasing the extensive collection of jewellery and adornment images shared on the former Ethnic Jewels Ning site over the years. These images have significantly enriched discussions on cultural adornment and its global dispersion.

Tunisian cuff

Brought to U.S. from North Africa by a soldier during World War II. Bears a Tunisian hallmark showing bunch of grapes. Sketchy surface design. Diameter, 65mm, height, 50mm. Thoughts? Comments?
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Comments

  • Was this obtained directly from Tunisia? Looks like calligraphy on it.
  • Hi Patricia, I purchased it from somebody whose father brought it back from North Africa but she didn't know specifically where it was purchased. I thought it might be calligraphy too but as I continue to look at it, it doesn't seem to look quite right to be calligraphy. My guess is that it was made quickly to take advantage of the market of soldiers passing through. The stamping seems like it was done in haste. It could possibly have origins in Egypt or with Egyptian jewelers, maybe near Siwa, even though the stamp is Tunisian. I love the mystery!
  • It clearly has a story to tell, regardless of whether it was done quickly to take advantage of a sale or under other circumstances. It is interesting, there is not a lot of old Tunisian stuff floating around for puchase, at least from my buying observations and I have seen few bracelets before. I have nothing to compare it to and know so little about the area that I could not even specify what region it may belong to. I think the French marketplace knows more about Tunisian and Algerian things than other places.
  • The shape matches a Siwa bangle that I have. The etching is different. My cuff has etching of fish but in a similar style. I will have a look at work tomorrow and maybe able to upload a pic with more info. Te etching does look like Siwa work.
    A
  • I've noticed the shape is widely used in Egypt, Libya and Tunisia. There must have been a lot of communication between jewelers and people. I would love to see your Siwa bracelet. I'm still puzzled by the mysterious etching on mine. I haven't ever seen anything like it.
  • I think that this etched design looks like stylized fish and the etching style is similar to that used on Zar amulets and a cuff that I thought I had but now remember selling! from the Siwa Oasis. I did a little research and my wonderful world of bracelets book published by Skira (ISBN 88-8491-255-5) has 3 pages of cuffs from Tunisia, Libya (Berber) and Egypt. The fish symbol and this shape feature in all 3 countries. There is also an etched bracelet from Libya with a small likeness. They describe the fish symbol with a nice story "At the end of her pregnancy, Sidi Suleimans's mother had a craving for fish which were unavailable in Siwa. She prayed, and later a bird brought her one. After she ate it she gave birth. Thus, the holy man is represented by a fish."
    I have photographed my Siwa pieces and am uploading them to my image library on Flickr. The first one is there and some more will be shown as sets in the Jewellery collection shortly. Enjoy.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/sidewalk_tribal_galleries/sets/7215762...
  • Thank you for your research and the wonderful Siwa story. The form is widespread throughout the region and the raised middle section with the herringbone lines seems to be a typical treatment. The looseness of the surface design does remind me of Siwa amulets. I suspect it was etched quickly to take market advantage of the soldiers moving through the area during World War II. Notice the circles on the left; their placement is imprecise and they've been struck a few times. Those could be fish forms or landscapes or maybe just something to cater to the market. Whatever, it's historic context is interesting. Your Siwa bracelet is stunning. Do you know the age?
  • I think that you may be right about the etching. People tell me about all of the traders selling silver who used to meet the boats as they stopped at Alexandria before going through the Suez canal. I quite often see people in Aus wearing bracelets they have inherited from their grand mother who came through the Suez in the 1940 - 50's. The heavy plaited one was very popular.

    I don't know the age of my large siwa bracelet. There are 5 marks inside it that could be silver and makers marks but they are very worn and difficult to see.

    I have now uploaded images of almost all of my old Egyptian pieces. (2 to come)   http://www.flickr.com/photos/sidewalk_tribal_galleries/collections/...

  • I love your story about people meeting boats at Alexandria. Such details give a real sense of time, place and connections. It also helps explain the designs on the bracelet. Your Egyptian pieces are beautiful. I think my bracelet has a lot in common with your 2315 Siwa cuff. Your shop looks wonderful!
  • Hi Ann and Suzan (and others!),

     

    What a beautiful bracelet!  I have a comparable bracelet that I will post one of these days. Mine shows birds in the central panels, a pair of doves, thought to bring good luck. I have some information on the use of animals in jewelry here; the fish is a very old symbol in the Middle East and is also often regarded as a powerful fertility amulet (since Roman times, even). Your bracelet is very intriguing in it decoration...I agree with your earlier conclusion it might be rather hastily made to sell to soldiers. The constellation of the dots is often seen in jewelry from Libya, Tunisia, Siwa: it is called a sun-and-moon motif but it could also be a representation of the Pleiades, although your bracelet clearly shows more than 7 dots. Well, a lot of text but no explanation :) I will go through my books on Tunisian jewelry to see if I can find a parallel to your decoration!

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