A digital archive showcasing the extensive collection of jewellery and adornment images shared on the former Ethnic Jewels Ning site over the years. These images have significantly enriched discussions on cultural adornment and its global dispersion.

Swat Valley ? bracelets

This is a pair of silver and niello bracelets from the Swat Valley (CONFIRMATION/ REFUTATION PLEASE!) I believe that the flowers are poppies, due to the fact that historically there is heavy opium production in that area. Many cultures (especially the Golden Triangle) seem to have poppy motifs in jewelry as opium was/ is such an integral part of the economy. I've seen similar work with white metal and niello.
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  • Hillary, I do not profess to know where these do come from, but I do feel very sure that they are not from the Swat Valley. There is nothing I have ever seen from the Swat Valley in this style, and the workmanship is far too rough for that area. As you ask for an honest opinion I would add that the workmanship is really quite disconcertingly crude, and I suspect that they do not have much age on them, though the crudity also suggests that this is country work undertaken by a relatively unskilled smith. The niello parts indicate a likely Islamic origin. You may wish to look through "A World of Bracelets" for something similar, or ask Linda Pastorino, who is very knowledgeable and may identify the area of origin.
  • I have seen similar, though of simpler design, bracelets identified as under the Afghan general term. Sometimes as Kuchi. Occasionally the shield shaped element is offered separately as a ring. In one instance I have seen it identified as possible being a part from a Caucasian belt.

  • Hi,I would like to second Frankie Carter madam,This bracelet belongs to Afghanistan.Bracelets like these are available in the market.Will post some pictures by tomorrow and will ask the owner about which area specifically does these bracelets belong.Thank you

    Best Regards

    Amir

  • I should add that the simpler ones I`ve seen have been of white metal. Though not the shield shape.

  • Interestingly, I was looking at pieces posted by Caucasian jewels just now and one of his belts from Georgian featured a shield very similar to this (also in niello, of course). An interesting connection. I thought of you at once, Frankie, and came back here to point this out.

  • Thank you, Joost, for thinking of me.

    I think I have found the belt in question. It has almost shield shapes on it. As does one of kebzari`s.  It`s located in the photo of his collection at the bottom of the rug. I just hope that good belts don`t get broken up to make maybe more saleable, hence lucrative, smaller items.

  • Quite so, Frankie! Thanks for that informative reaction and your good work leading up to it. I had found your reference to the Caucasian shields telling before, and got quit a jolt when I saw one on a belt posted by Caucasian Jewels, quite by accident. It was really almost identical ...

  • Joost, I agree with you on the origin of this bracelet. I think that neither this or the one Amir posted come from the Swat area, as you say - too rough (lots of poppies in Afghanistan, too!).

    I have just acquired a bracelet featuring the niello shield shapes. It was just described under the general heading of Kuchi. I`ve also acquired a ring featuring a similar shield shape but of considerably better workmanship. The seller has a workshop in Istanbul but I don`t know if that`s where the ring was made up. He says the shield shape has come from an Uzbek belt.

  • Thank you very much, Frankie, for that interesting analysis and account. I didn't really like to say that I found the object too rough to come from the Swat area, and respect Hillary greatly, but I couldn't think of any better word to use ...  And it is tremendously satisfying, as I know Hillary agrees, that this site does enable us to increase our knowledge, or to see our hunches confirmed, from time to time.

  • Thank you for all of the information.  I was told that these were from the Swat valley, but I was very unsure as my title and description state.  I'm sure that they're Central Asian and vintage, not terribly old.  The niello shields I believe were cast and then filled with niello and sanded/ polished down, thus accounting for the roughness, this is usually a sign of more "mass" production.  I've since seen almost identical shields used in earrings; I think that they were posted by Michel of Halter.  

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