A digital archive showcasing the extensive collection of jewellery and adornment images shared on the former Ethnic Jewels Ning site over the years. These images have significantly enriched discussions on cultural adornment and its global dispersion.

Please ID

Hello friends, I need help IDing this piece and whether it is a necklace, headpiece, or something else. I am posting it uncleaned / untouched by me, as I want to know what it is before I do anything. It has an old soft burlap "collar" which has been sewn shut, the collar is 42cm around on the inside. The red and blue beads are glass, the red ones all different kinds. The white beads are mostly glass but also with some from a natural material (shell? bone?) after the red stripes. The white beads are graduated with largest bead strands in the center and smaller towards the size. The bottom row of bronze beads have either an intricate maze pattern, or flower pattern, and have the remains of gold gilding or paint inside the recesses. Up-close pictures in the comments.Dimensions:Laid out this way, 28cm long by 23cm wide340 grams
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Comments

  • Here are the close up pictures:

    2506025937?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024

    2506026049?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024

    2506034477?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024

  • Could this possibly be a headdress similar to the one this lady is wearing in this photo

  • ZambesziCocktail seems to have found it, Lynn. There are some similar pieces  here

    http://blackeagleflights.blogspot.de/2014/06/learning-to-use-crossb...

    and here:

    https://www.pinterest.com/pin/145522631681763936/

    Very nice find! Even reminds me a bit of some Ethiopian beadwork...

  • THANK YOU ZambeziCocktail!!  It definitely drapes over the head just like those photos (I tried it.)  It was in a sale which had a pair of Burmese Shan cuffs which look very old to me, early 20th century or 19th century.  I bought those too.  So possibly Lisu in Burma.  Does anyone know how to tell the age of glass beads? 

  • Dear Lynn; I love the bead work. It is gorgeous and I do not believe that it needs too much cleaning. Regards. Peter

  • I did not know what this was, and am very glad that ZambeziCocktail's post - along with other valuable ones! - has commendably established broadly  where it comes from. It's a very appealing and interesting piece. Just a few further - very tentative - comments, Lynn. I don't know whether one can as yet identify it as definitely and specifically Lisu, though it I am not suggesting it isn't. The important point is that we now at the very least know which part of the world it is from and how it was worn. As to area: Fugong, which was mentioned in some of the material accompanying a relevant photo, is in China. The Lisu, however, also occur in the Golden Triangle. You will probably in one way or another find out yet more about the wearers. I feel certain it is not a Naga piece, in any case.  It does appear to be from the complex SW China (Yunnan) / Golden Triangle area. Similar beads, per se, of course occur elsewhere, too (e.g. Kalimantan, Indonesia; Orissa, India). They were widely traded, and it is notably the object, as such, which is culturally distinctive rather than the materials. The white beads, notably, look quite old: that is obvious from the wear, the patina, and the varying (often brownish) shades. Possibly also, as you say, from the white beads not being glass in each case (I cannot see them clearly enough to tell whether some aren't, but wouldn't be surprised if they are a mixture of materials; even if they are all glass they are obviously not all the same "batch", and probably not all the same age). I would definitely not clean the beads with any liquid, but polishing with a soft cloth would bring out their lustre more. On the whole it is important not to interfere too much. Another nice piece for your collection - well done! Others - especially bead collectors- could tell you far more about the beads. Their knowledge is in some cases absolutely awesome.

  • Hi Joost, I was so hoping you would comment with your extensive knowledge of Southeast Asian tribal jewelry.  Thank you so much for your kind comments!  I agree with you I should not immerse it in water.. the strands and the "collar" are fraying and might not survive.  I have started gently cleaning the beads with a cloth and they are gorgeous!  I believe many of the white beads to either side of the piece are conch shell and need to find my loupe to be sure.   Joost may I ask for your opinion: how much of the cultural value of this headdress would I harm, if I opened one of the seams in the back so I could wear it as a necklace by clipping or buckling the ends (without additions?)  I am conflicted, because I would love to wear this, but I don't want to harm it.

  • Fascinating to hear that some of the beads might be made of shell, and that is very well possible - and enhances the quality of the piece, as well as its interest. As to your question, even if I were a woman I probably would not wear it if any interference with it could not be entirely undone (and I do mean entirely!). That sounds perhaps awfully "hard line", and it is, but the problem is that most of the serious collectors are very unforgiving on matters of this nature ... It would look good "on", I do agree, but it is probably in all respects best not to wear it ...

  • Dear Joost, thank you for your advice -- I really appreciate it!  This is probably the first piece I will get a display stand for in my house.  I have also figured out how to wear it as a choker without interfering with it.  I will repost this piece when I am done polishing the beads. On Preethi's kind suggestion I posted this to beadcollecter.net, so far the comments are that some of the beads are European 19th/early 20th century, some are newer Indian, and there is an opinion that the bronze beads are old Chinese garment buttons...  

  • It is good if you can wear it as a choker, Lynn, but to get a stand made for it is a great idea. Judging from our own experience I predict that you will find it a most gratifying solution, as you get to see the piece more often! Truus hardly wears any ethnic/tribal jewellery now, so I am well pleased to live with a number of such objects on stands. They tend to "present" as very sculptural and to lift one's spirits as friendly company. Preethi's idea to post the piece for comment is excellent and typically helpful. It is very interesting to read what you are reporting! Beads do "get around", for sure, and very often, in a piece like this, they not only come from different sources, but are also from different periods. The idea that the bronze beads are old Chinese garment buttons sounds particularly fascinating. A great advantage of the internet is that it makes it easy to get advice and opinions from all over the place. We have a small African piece of sculpture which had been sold to us as Indonesian and after some time decided that it must, after all, be African, but had no idea beyond that ... After posting the piece on Facebook I got three correct identifications within about half an hour, and one of the contributors even posted a photo of a very similar piece to establish his point. Wonderful!

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