A digital archive showcasing the extensive collection of jewellery and adornment images shared on the former Ethnic Jewels Ning site over the years. These images have significantly enriched discussions on cultural adornment and its global dispersion.
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Hello Lynn, I assume that the white resin is a form of plaster meant to help the repoussed silver retain its form. What a lovely find!
Some remarks.
The raised volumes embedding cabs in the form of flowers is definetely an old work inherited from the late granada kingdom . Obviously it was trasferred heavily to the islamic world by expelled moriscos ( jews and muslims alike) and the most common of this work is to be found mainly in pieces from Northern Morocco and the urban centers of the Ottoman world (Constantinople and Thessaloniki) both regions were heavilly settled by these refugees. Some pieces from historic Armenia do have these features ( historic armenia which was now in central and eastern todays turkey). It is highly likely that this work was more widespread around the mediterranean but it only survived in the aforementioned places until late 19th century and early 20 th as it seems from the pieces we encounter and which are quite common in museums and were very often published.
Second remark is that of the actual shape of the necklace itself is that of post renaissance europe ( the one other example that you posted below is definetely older as it reminds me of the european rennaissance breast jewels worn as pectoral and worn and often displaying revival antiue cameos or crosses). Yours seems of later style, deprived from the baroque feel one encounters in older style and In my humble opinion belongs to the set of jewelry which influence came to the ottoman world from neighbouring austro hungarian kingdom.
Contact between both states was heavy regardless of the ongoing war between them but eventually it fell to the advantage to Europeans.
Your piece is , i feel, a direct result of these growing influences that kept unfolding until the Ottoman rule totally disappeared, BUT the lack of luxuries such as diamonds and the use of medieval Spain techniques might place this piece in some early stage somewhere around late 18th century very early 19 th century.
It is a fantastic piece. Congratulations
What a fabulous find, Lynn! Love that the two flowers on either side of the longer pendant are different from each other. What a piece that original necklace must have been! Congratulations.
Dear Alaa, Preethi and Hillary, thank you so much for your kind comments. Hillary you are right, the white substance inside is plaster to hold the shape.
Alaa thank you so much for your wonderful commentary. One detail that might help with the date is that the rubies and emeralds are not cabs, they are table cut. Basically a very simple cut with a huge table and four skinny crown facets. I also got an ID as late 18th / early 19th century and probably Armenian made on Facebook. Alaa, I am not sure the photo I added from sothebys is much different in age, the construction and design of these pieces is so similar.
Preethi, yes this must have been spectacular.. the flowers used to attach at the top and bottom to the center section which fit into them like a puzzle piece... I think they must have made a large interlocking choker.
Here's a photo of the back, and one from the side to show the three-dimensionality.
The additional metal stripes to back the volumes and make them sturdier is another vote for an early age and YESS Armenia is again very likely.
I stress again on the fact i mentioned on my first comment about the Armenian identity for it is not restricted to todays Armenian territorry.
Basically all of modern days Turkey was settled by armenians especially central and eastern part before ethnic cleansing/expulsion took place.
There is also a wonderful crown/diadem kept at the St. petersburg museum of former ussr ethnicities which is labelled as Armenian and which showcases the same stamped /repousse technique forming articulated volumes such as yours but the stones used on that crown are of later cut
Another stunning "Lynn-find".
I'd also vote for Armenia, and also found a couple of similar pieces (necklace, headdresses and a clasp dated 19th and 18th century respectively) in a book on "Armenian Jewelry Art" published in Yerevan in 1983. Unfortunately the pictures are rather poor quality and the description not very detailed, but it seems that these kind of jewellery came from Van and/or the surrounding region that Armenians called Vaspurakan (today northeastern Turkey and a small part of north western part Iran). I am a bit in a hurry now, but will try to scan the pictures and descriptions later...
Great piece, I am totally thrilled! Congrats!
Thank you Betty and Alaa! :) Betty if you get the chance I would absolutely love to see the photos. I looked up this book and it is rather expensive so count yourself lucky for having it. :) Alaa thank you so much for your helpful comments. When Armenians were crafting the jewels, were they creating them for other Armenians or for ethnic Turks?
Following Betty's insights, i remember seeing a piece of a crown made on the same technique on offer at a shop in the city of VAN last year.
Well i don't know who exactely were the custommers of Armenian smiths in the region but the ethnic mosaic of the whole subregion would suggest that they were catering for all.
Some belt buckles who were made in van could find their way to Irak...and so on!
That's interesting, Alaa. I also think it is really exciting how the divers groups in this region co-existed and inspired on another.
Here are the not very clear pictures (and yes, Lynn, I was lucky to get this and two other books for only a few Euros at a market in Armenia). The belt buckle is different but shows the same kind of work as can be seen at the centre of one of the flower shaped elements of your necklace:
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