Collection of Ait Serrouchen/Seghrouchen jewellery - three necklaces, one headdress. Against an old embroidered velvet kaftan from Jordan. - Gallery

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Collection of Ait Serrouchen/Seghrouchen jewellery - three necklaces, one headdress. Against an old embroidered velvet kaftan from Jordan.

Posted by Frankie Carter on August 30, 2012 at 1:57pm

The two following photos are details from the central necklace. Can the pendants be termed as louha?

Comments

Patricia Deany August 30, 2012 at 2:07pm

Fabulous!
Frankie Carter August 30, 2012 at 2:26pm

Thanks, Patti. So far, so good but I`m kicking myself now for not bidding on a couple of Serrouchen temporals on France eBay recently. Do you think the pendants could be called louha or is that term only reserved for items of similar shape with specific engraved designs?
Patricia Deany August 30, 2012 at 3:14pm

That's an interesting question. My understanding is that a louha is a specific pendant given to someone for completing Koranic training, so , unlike the hamsa which shows up in all kinds of decorative motifs, the shape is not so much decorative as specific to the purpose. It represents the wooden Koranic boards on which verses are written and practiced.Not all louha have Koranic writing on them, none of mine do. Anyway, maybe someone more knowledgeable like AYis can follow up on this and give a more accurate answer. I see you have been very busy in assiduously searching your favorite pieces, good for you.
Frankie Carter August 30, 2012 at 7:33pm

Thanks, Patti - enlightening as always and, I suspect, quite correct. The pendants in question certainly don`t look like louha I have seen previously. I`ve cleaned the fronts but they are thick with grime on the reverse. I like to retain the evidence of previous ownership.

Thanks, Akkie, too. I love the kaftan, too. It was a recent eBay £10 bargain. It`s pretty worn in parts but the lovely heavy embroidery detracts from that. We both regret our unbought items.
Alaa eddine SAGID August 31, 2012 at 12:29am

You have been doing a tremendous job collecting all these beautiful jewels, especially when one knows that it is nowaday very very hard to come by an ait seghrouchen loose pendant let alone a complete necklace.

I particularly apreciate the second jewel from the top with the louha like small pendants.

Louhas as Patti knowledgeably explained are specific pendants to be found in very specific areas. Mainly among arab tribes and urban dwellers that are likely to have among their relatives some learned young men who master the science of religion.

In remote south eastern morocco, smallish louhas are only worn by "sherifa" ladies who are touted to be descent in direct linkage from the prophet, so this is a serious clue that louhas are strongly connected to islamic believes and religion.

But as for the khamsa which is another strongly urban pendant, attraction is somewhat strong enough to entice berber population to adopt these urban jewels as signs of might with most of the time failing in copying them the right way or is it a conscious move to maintain a sense of specificity?

Still, the overall shape is very similar to be pure coincidence, the niello technique though is very old and thought to come from the east (Tunisia or algeria??) and was once very widespread throuout the country, eventually dwindled everywhere and been preserved by the ait seghrouchen as the major techique in their jewels, maybe because this tribe was tightly related to the kings that came from the east and ruled Morocco over a period of time bringing so many eastern arts among which was niello!!
ann August 31, 2012 at 4:51am

Necklaces gorgeous, and the kafthan? it looks fantastic. Hope you will wear it.
SARAH CORBETT August 31, 2012 at 7:23am

A great insight as always thank you Ayis
Marie-Ange August 31, 2012 at 9:50am

WOW spectacular pieces and gorgeous dress!! do you wear it yourself?
Frankie Carter August 31, 2012 at 10:47am

Ayis, I so much appreciate your comments especially on niello with regard to the Seghrouchen heritege. I consider myself priviledged to have the chance to learn from your vast knowledge bank and am grateful for the time you spent in explanation. Please write a book (said in a small, pleading voice....).

Ann, this is the kaftan I mentioned but I didn`t wear it to the recent wedding - it was too warm. Yes, Marie-Ange, I do wear it. It`s a great background for big necklaces!
Frankie Carter August 31, 2012 at 10:51am

Of course I mean "heritage". I was reminded by Ayis that actually I have a Seghrouchen pendant that managed to escape this photo. I`ll include it later.