Belt - Armenia - Gallery - Adorned Histories

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Belt - Armenia

Posted by Peter Hoesli on December 12, 2014 at 2:16pm

I and the silver dealer in Amman came to the conclusion that this belt is from Armenia. If anyone knows more details and/or the exact origin, I would of course appreciate your comments.The belt is very old, way over 100 years old (it has the date engraved but I cannot remember and I do not have the belt with me in Jordan) and highly unusual. I have seen a very similar unit, which was missing the buckle, with a very famous collector in Jordan, hence, it is not a fantasy composition of many elements and techniques. The diamond shape features are actually exactly the same as can be found on Omani jewelry (I will post a Omani necklace for comparison). The Niello is applied on both sides - not only the upper sides, and the pieces with the Onyx are featuring Niello decorations on the reverse side. The buckle has been amended to a simple screw lock but used to feature a small sword to close like many Caucasian belts.

Comments

ingrid Langerak December 12, 2014 at 3:42pm

Dear Peter, Beautiful and fascinating. All the different techiniques love also the two pendant links set on a raised box, showing off the above the average work. Sorry I can only admire it and not contribute to that part of the world. Gr. Ingrid.
Alaa eddine SAGID December 12, 2014 at 4:24pm

I can read "KAVKAZ" or caucasus on the belt buckle, but i think you already noticed that detail

The jeweled diamond shaped parts are more northern caucasus though (Daghestan....)
Betty December 12, 2014 at 4:40pm

Very beautiful, Peter! Congratulations.

I tend to agree with Alaa though that this piece looks more Daghestani than Armenian: the diamond-shaped elements in combination with the raised boxes are rather typical, though the diamond-shapes can also be found in North-Eastern Georgia (neighbouring Daghestan).

Maybe I can find a hint in some of the books I picked up the Caucasus this summer. Regards, Betty
Betty December 12, 2014 at 4:50pm

Have you seen this piece posted by Linda Pastorino a while ago?

https://ethnicjewels.ning.com/photo/headdress-silver
Peter Hoesli December 12, 2014 at 5:04pm

Dear Betty; WOW - this is great! Now I know why my friend's piece did not have a buckle!!! As I have mentioned in my posting, the buckle was altered and is now featuring a different closing. Very interesting indeed. However, I will keep it in this arrangement. Again, I love pieces that have lived... It remains now only to find out how the designs of Oman and Kubachi ended up almost the same... With kind regards and many thanks for your help - much appreciated. Peter
Alaa eddine SAGID December 12, 2014 at 5:11pm

Very good Betty,

Though i am still hesitating to definetely conclude if the original stra was a belt Like Peter's or a headresse like Linda's. Maybe the same design was used to make both jewels.

@ Peter

Both places are not extremely far away from each others and through "recent" history both received powerful influences from the two biggest middle eastern powers of Persia and Ottoman world.

could it be that the answer lies somewhere there or perhaps digging in much older influences (antiquity)?!

I love the niello on the large braided bands endings!
Peter Hoesli December 12, 2014 at 5:21pm

Dear Ala'a; Many thanks for your message. Oman has mainly Baluchi influences. However, Oman was having the trade routes from India and Far East across the Arabian peninsula to the Levant, Caucasus and Europe. The designs could have travelled this way... Just another theory... With kind regards. Peter
Betty December 12, 2014 at 6:46pm

Fascinating topic!

I could also just speculate about a possible ancient heritage, but since looking at the antique jewellery finds in Georgia a while ago (with lots of Greek, Persian, even Egyptian influences), I think we should definitely look much more into the ancient past...

As for the belt or headdress, I just looked at my digital archive and unearthed a painting by Max Tilke, a berlin painter who studies folk costumes in the Caucasus region just prior to the 1st World War. He shows a similar piece worn by like a lady (from Kubachi or the region?) strapped crosswise over the shoulder and under the arms. But of course this does not rule out the existence of a belt with similar elements...
Alaa eddine SAGID December 12, 2014 at 6:50pm

Fantastic reference Betty, many thanx
Lynn Ardent December 12, 2014 at 7:56pm

Wonderful jewel and discussion! Great job Betty and congratulations Peter!