Gallery

A digital archive showcasing the extensive collection of jewellery and adornment images shared on the former Ethnic Jewels Ning site over the years. These images have significantly enriched discussions on cultural adornment and its global dispersion.

A well used hat decoration

Posted by Thelma on December 1, 2016 at 11:29am

A nineteenth-early twentieth century hat decoration worn by both Karakalpaks and Uzbeks in Khiva. Made of a thin silver sheet in the form of a modified boteh-shaped container, stabilised by means of a filler, it is gilded and engraved with simple abstract patterns and studded with glass pearls - the lowest of which is typically surrounded by tiny turquoise seed beads. Beneath, there is a fringe of crushed gold pendants - no longer the vigorous beard that it once had but still with a few whiskers remaining. A long string of beads completes the picture.

Comments

Thelma December 1, 2016 at 11:42am

Amongst the Uzbeks, the boteh represents manhood and male fertility. Seiwert (p.199) explains that this is why Uzbeks smile (and probably joke) when female tourists put on caps embroidered with botehs. The hat decoration above would seem to represent the same ideas. I suppose it is possible that it too would have been worn by a man. Please tell if you know.
Peter Hoesli December 2, 2016 at 5:41am

This is fantastic Thelma. The colors are wonderful! Congratulations! Peter
Thelma December 3, 2016 at 11:52am

Thanks, Peter. Here is a picture of a similar hat decoration from Kalter and Pavaloi's book, Uzbekistan. Typically, there are two little rings: one at the top right - for sewing the decoration to the hat; and one at the bottom - for a string of beads which can be used as a counterweight to adjust the angle of the decoration on the hat. It is rare to see the string of beads in place. But it gives a realistic impression of what it would be like to wear one of these pieces... quite a lively experience.
Betty December 4, 2016 at 3:13pm

A gorgeous find Thelma. It's one of these pieces that really has character. Unfortunately I cannot answer your question - maybe there is more info in the wonderful huge book on Karalpak jewellery (author's name has escaped me - but I think you know which one I mean)?
Thelma December 9, 2016 at 1:29pm

Thanks Betty. Problem finally solved. Here is a different picture of the hat decoration below, from Rachel Hasson's book Later Islamic Jewellery (Thanks, Joost). The caption tells us that the piece is a 'Gilded silver TURBAN ORNAMENT', 19th century, from Khiva - part of the Gull Collection - and compares it to similar ornaments from India and Persia. So 'Were these pieces worn by men?' I think the answer is probably a resounding 'Yes'.