A token of affection

A digital archive showcasing the extensive collection of jewellery and adornment images shared on the former Ethnic Jewels Ning site over the years. These images have significantly enriched discussions on cultural adornment and its global dispersion.

A token of affection

Posted by Thelma on February 14, 2017 at 12:28pm

Found in Khiva, these long tubular temple ornaments, made of silver that has been gilded and stamped with a floral pattern at the centre, are set with tiny oval sky-blue turquoise stones. Beneath the stones are finely wrought pendant chains of coral and silver gilt leaves which tremble at the slightest movement. Length: 15.5cm. Nineteenth century.

Comments

Thelma February 14, 2017 at 12:42pm

Here is a picture of a similar pair of ornaments from the Museum of Applied Arts in Tashkent. Originally, they would have been given by a young man to the girl he was going to marry as a token of his affection. And she would have worn them with a lock of her hair attached to the bottom of each one. The picture is from a book called The Folk Art of Uzbekistan, published in Uzbekistan in 1979
howah February 14, 2017 at 4:42pm

Love these!
Thelma February 14, 2017 at 8:16pm

Dear Howah, Thanks for this. When I got these, some time ago, they were sewn onto and wrapped in an old piece of material. I think that's what has kept them in a relatively good condition. Most of the others I have seen have lost their coral beads and the little silver gilt leaves which are very delicate and detach themselves very easily.
Peter Hoesli February 15, 2017 at 12:26am

Dear Thelma; These are gorgeous and so well kept! Congratulations! Peter
howah February 15, 2017 at 12:39am

Yes these are very well preserved. There was a pair for sale recently, but it was in very bad shape. Otherwise I would have purchased them. At least I have the triangular shaped amulet that is shown on the scan of the book.
Thelma February 15, 2017 at 11:55am

Thanks Peter. Yes, they have survived remarkably well. But even when I picked them up for the first time, a small gilded leaf fell off - you can probably hear a low moan of distress. I think it must have been loose already. And even though I have the leaf it will be very difficult to put it back because of the way the tiny pendants are constructed. I suspect this is one of the reasons why we see so many of these pieces without a full set of decorations.
Thelma February 15, 2017 at 1:01pm

Interesting that there was another pair on sale recently, Howah. I've only seen them as components of more recently designed jewellery. I'll attach a photo of a necklace where they have been used as part of the design. It can be found at www.karlssonandwickman.com/ethnic-jewelry/
Toya February 15, 2017 at 4:02pm

The subtle gold with the turquoise and coral is divine! Great find!
Betty February 15, 2017 at 8:05pm

What an amazing find, Thelma. My congratulations. Great picture and info as usual...
Thelma February 16, 2017 at 12:16pm

Thanks Betty and Toya. When I first bought these I was asked to remember that, although these were named 'naicha' in other parts of Uzbekistan, they were called 'sagc tuyme' or 'sagc tutoykon' in Khiva. Most of those I have seen on display seem to have been labelled 'naicha' so maybe that is their common name. Does anyone know more?

Gallery

A token of affection

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