A digital archive showcasing the extensive collection of jewellery and adornment images shared on the former Ethnic Jewels Ning site over the years. These images have significantly enriched discussions on cultural adornment and its global dispersion.

200-years old Belt Buckle - Bulgaria

This belt buckle is the non-plus-ultra - an absolute rarity and the most deep and artistically carved mother of pearl insert of belt buckle, I have come across, dating back to 1814! There is an equally rare tinsel belt in salmon-mauve-light green color with gold threads accompanying this buckle, which most probably used to belong to a religious person (nun or monk). A museum piece.
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Comments

  • By the way, this buckle is just short of 30cm in width!
  • Dear Peter, this is an absolutely extraordinary and lovely buckle. I love the artistry of the carving and the tiny details like the point on the end of the dragon's tail to the left.  Now, may I ask what is happening on the right-hand side of the buckle?? :)  It looks like the dragon is replaced with a man and he is wearing a fez!  Was this a statement linking the Ottoman rulers to the devil that St. George is defeating?

  • Most impressive, Peter.

  • Dear Lynn and Joost; Many thanks for your comments.

    The above buckles depict St. Georges and St. Demetrius. Both saints are referred by the Orthodox church, among others also the Balkan. The following is how these two saints are usually pictures, icons and other religious-related artifacts such as this buckle.

    Demetrius, bearded, rather older, and on a dark horse, rides together with St George, unbearded and on a white horse. Both are dressed as cavalrymen. Also, while St. George is often shown spearing a dragon, St. Demetrius is depicted spearing the gladiator Lyaeos, who according to story was responsible for killing many Christians. Lyaeos is commonly depicted below Demetrius and lying supine, having already been defeated; Lyaeos is traditionally drawn much smaller than Demetrius. In traditional hagiography, Demetrius did not directly kill Lyaeos, but rather through his prayers the gladiator was defeated by Demetrius' disciple, Nestor.

    With kind regards.

    Peter

  • Great comment, Peter!

  • Hi Peer, - Two of my Facebook readers who appear familiar with this type of buckle very much question the idea that it would have been worn by a religious person instead of a secular woman at, notably, a wedding. I have however sent your description of the subject matter on the two halves to them, and asked them to contemplate the importance of that. Do you feel SURE about the idea of religious wearers??

  • Dear Joost; Many thanks for your message. I have seen these belt buckles as well in the Rila Monastry in Bulgaria, which is sensationally beautiful.

    I have been told that the buckles with the religious motifs were used mainly by religious people while the other buckles have other subjects displayed. I am herewith attaching some of my buckles with other than religious mother of pearl carved motifs. Some of them are absolutely huge! Further below, there are some photos of the Rila Monastry. Regards. Peter

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  • Peter, this is truly beautiful.

  • 2506047656?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024HERE IS A WONDERFUL POST FROM GRATIELA BUZIC  on Facebook (whose name I previously misspelled!):

    I have searched for buckles trying to find interesting pieces and I found one which left me even more puzzled. On this site http://www.doxologia.ro/viata-bisericii/reportaj/bisericuta-ocrotitoare-vaii-largului they talk about a small church from the XVIII century. Apparently a long time ago there was an older, smaller one, where in Sept. 1538 the ruling Prince Petru Rares hid for a while, as he had been betrayed by his nobles. He lived there for a while as a monk and then the monks helped him escape and cross the mountains to Transylvania. In his rush he must have left his belt at the church.After regaining his throne several years later he built a larger church in sign of gratitude.That church was later replaced by the one that exists nowadays. The church is quite little and little known and their most treasured piece is the prince's belt. What is interesting is that the buckle is almost the same with the one I showed two days ago and it represents Saint Catherine. It was a man's belt,but had a female saint on it! And this model dates from at least 1538,while the one from Dambovita is dated in the XVII century! The only thing that is clear is that yes, a noble person owning such a buckle could have spent time at a monastery (or could even have become a nun/monk) for various reasons, leaving the earthy possessions to the monastery. And apparently this type of belt was worn before the XVIII century, not only by women but also by men ( princes of those times used to wear Byzantine style clothing, so could have worn such a belt )
  • Dear All; Many thanks for your kind comments and to Joost a big Thank You for taking the time and efforts to obtain more detailed information about these beautifully crafted buckles. With kind regards. Peter

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