A digital archive showcasing the extensive collection of jewellery and adornment images shared on the former Ethnic Jewels Ning site over the years. These images have significantly enriched discussions on cultural adornment and its global dispersion.
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No real idea what it is, I must confess, Marie-Ange, but I shall certainly look around for something similar. Maybe before I come up with something someone else will know at once what it is! I do genuinely like it, artistically. Very effective.
If you look at the cover of Ethnic Jewellery (Rene van der Star collection) there is a Nepalese girl wearing one slightly similar necklace called a Kantha necklace, hers is of more beauty and larger but I think this necklace has been made with such an example in mind maybe??
Our covers seem to differ, Marie-Ange (mine does not have that picture), but inside, on p. 182, I am sure there is the same picture (in my edition) as the one you refer to, and yes, I agree there is a similarity. I shall now try to find out more by working from the two key concepts, Nepal and kantha, and in the first instance, at least, I would direct you to Hannelore Gabriel, *Jewelry of Nepal, p. 148, which does show not dissimilar necklaces on pp. 148-50 (though with different names used). Yours would be a fairly simple version of these, but there is a strong structural resemblance, of a horizontal component in the middle which is rigid, as a sort of pendant, while the necklace on each side consists of lots of strands of beads closely grouped together. I think we cannot be far off, but am still not wholly satisfied!! Will look further. In the meantime I think there is a better than even chance that we are "in business" this way.
Ok thank you Joost for your help!
I am actually not sure this is a Tilari style from Nepal. What is very different and usually they are all the same is that the bead is different having granulated lozenge in triangular shapes on it as well the other connecting beads are different. Another aspect what is different is that there are two colors of beads primarily the red being next to the silver section and of elongated nature. Usually they are all seed beads.
I would say it's from Pakistan and from the Hindu Kush area. If I have time I will see if I can find one like it. Have seen before. But I don't think it's the same as the Nepalese as the beads on those are all alike and different from these.
I found another style from Nepal that resembles this necklace and is called Newari, but also slightly different again. According to the seller it was from Pakistan (Sindh.)
Thought you would be at the show by now?? Have alot of fun and good sales!!
Hi again, Marie-Ange (and Linda and others): The Newari are usually seen as the best smiths working in Nepal, so if you found a Newari necklace close to this that would make it likely enough Nepalese. Gabriel, *Jewelry of Nepal*, p. 148, top, actually shows one which she says was made by a Newar goldsmith. While I can understand why Linda would not see the case for Nepal as proven, my personal inclination is - I must confess - still more in that direction than Pakistan. On p. 148 of Gabriel's book, right in the centre, there is an image of a necklace very similar to yours in approach. It has strands of black beads on both sides, as yours does, and in the centre it has just one fairly long bead (probably gold) fairly similar to yours in principle, though a bit more elaborate. The essential structure, though, is very similar, the visual impact being, in essence, that you see a rounded bead - or more than one bead - but also disk-shaped "dividers". As to the black beads: the image I have just mentioned has just one colour, but on p. 149 of Gabriel's book there is another necklace, also with the same general structure, but with each strand of beads on the side starting with red beads (which is relevant in considering yours). So all in all I would suggest that Nepal remains a very real possibility. And one of my chief problems is that I cannot actually find a Pakistani equivalent, although that does not mean much. I note that *A World of Necklaces* has on p. 267 another necklace with similarities to yours classified as Nepal, though the one in the centre of p. 148 of Gabriel's book is by far the closest, and VERY similar in the construction of the central bar-like bead. If it were mine I'd meanwhile classify your piece as Nepalese and only reject that if I found really compelling evidence to the contrary, particularly in the form of a photo in an authoritative book (of the standing of Gabriel's). Even so, I would not exclude Pakistan or possibly even another possibility. I agree with you, also, that yours is "vintage", and on that assumption I find the Nepalese attribution even easier "to come at".
Hi I looked at the page in her book you are referring to but I don't see the similarity you refer. In principle there are seed beads and then a structure of a metal beaded bar. The beads however on the Nepalese pieces are always the same. Either with pointed protrusions and or open work but they always look and are worked the same. never with the granulation or applied design as you see on yours. This particular culture's jewelry doesnt vary that much and I have seen probably 40 or more pieces of the Tilari (in fact named my fist fashion company after one of these ornaments !) I feel this necklace we are discussing is in fact from Pakistan in a similar area as to the ones we had discussed previously with the large beaded stuffed beads and seed bead sides. The pipe like structure with single bead that has granulation is not the usual work for this part of Nepal.
I found it. I knew I had seen that bead before. It is from the kinnaur region of Himachal Pradesh and is called a trimani necklace.
Good work, Linda. Obviously, if you can find one closer to Marie-Ange's piece than any of the ones in Gabriel's book, I am happy to accept that you have got hold of the right item. Do you have a photo of it? I say this, not to express scepticism, but simply because if you can post an illustration then we can all learn from it by studying differences and similarities.
Hi Linda, please if you find the time include a picture, would be very helpfull. Thanks alot both Linda and Joost!
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