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Turkoman experts, what do you think?

Posted by Patricia Deany on October 27, 2014 at 11:54pm in Discussions

Here is an interesting item. It is from an excellent dealer and is described as C19th Yomud Turkoman Silver gold Acar-Bag Necklace. I have my own opinion about this piece, I wonder if any of our Turkoman experts could speak to it.Evidently an acar bag is the equivilent of a kheikel, usually a leather bag embellished with silver, carried by the older women of the tribe.

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  • Alaa eddine SAGID October 29, 2014 at 4:31pm

    i would even dare to say that the blue color seems to be paint!!

    My gut feeling tell me it is new, has got a carnival feel to it!!

  • Patricia Deany October 28, 2014 at 3:08pm
    Well there is always Central Asian enamel work as well. My opinion when I first saw this was that it was contemporary but I know this is always a controversial call and this dealer is an excellent one. I think it is now very difficult to judge such pieces. I go by an old standard for Turkoman jewelry which does not include enamel or little turquoise. But many people disagree with me. That does not distract from the beauty of the piece but it does put into question the price which is relatively high.
  • Betty October 28, 2014 at 2:47pm

    Most interesting! I agree with Lynn that the turquoise "beads" appear to be enamel as well. This kind of decoration is typical for Russian enamel work (as are flowers, though they are usually more refined). Still (if not "new") could this be a piece perhaps be inspired by Russian enamel work?

  • Patricia Deany October 28, 2014 at 2:05pm
    There does appear to be some enamel in the flowers as well. Yes, I have not seen such flowers in the body of ba piece before. I question the presence of enamel here . This looks like at best a vintage fantasy piece to me. I am no expert however and would appreciate as much input as possible.
  • Lynn Ardent October 28, 2014 at 1:45pm

    Very far from an expert, just sharing some observations.  The turquoise color looks like enamel to me as well. 

    The flower shaped appliques (no enamel) on each side of the central element are unusual because that stamping is used for dangles, and not usually on Turkoman pieces, more often on other Afghan ethnic pieces.  I have not seen a dangle stamping used as an applique element before. 

  • Patricia Deany October 28, 2014 at 12:06pm

    It may the the way the pic is taken, but it looks as though there is some kind of enamel on the piece and I do not think that is congruent with very old Turkoman pieces.

  • Patricia Deany October 28, 2014 at 12:04pm

    Thanks Thelma for the research! I am famililiar with the two pics on the bottom but not with the item on the top right which most resembles the mystery item. I did find an acar bag in Schletzer which does not at all resemble this one. The designation of Yomud seems accurate as the Yomud use the gilded placques to embellish their work. I also found another pic in Schletzer named a Western Yomud doga  kumus which does open and does resemble this to some degree. This has table set carnelians and ten circles surrounding the central carnelian which are symbolic. I also consulted Kalter with no luck. I am confused by the what looks like turquoise stones which surround the central element in almost a cats eye pattern.

  • Thelma October 28, 2014 at 11:12am

    2506035756?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024Dear Patti, I am not an expert in these matters but simply an enthusiastic amateur so rather than venture an opinion, I will set up the skittles and enable other members to have a go. Like me they needn't be experts in Turkoman jewellery. I'll include some pictures of similar Turkoman amulets for comparisons to be made before the decision about the mystery amulet. For all these pictures I am indebted to Herman Rudolph's book on the Gull Collection 'Der Turkmenenschmuck'.

    Picture 1. The mystery amulet. 8x10cm, silver and gilded plates, carnelians and blue glass stones, can be opened

    Picture 2. A kumush doga. 7.5x10cm, silver with gilding, carnelians and green glass stones, can be opened.

    Picture 3. An acar-bag. 7.5x10cm, silver, extensive gilding, usually can't be opened.

    Picture 4. A kheykal. 17x19cm, mainly leather, with silver decoration, carnelians, can be opened.

    So I think we have to decide on the mystery piece.

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